BASIC KNOWLEDGE T-SHIRT (针织衬衫基本知识)
如果知识对于没有学过服装基础知识的同学会比较陌生些,可以找出自己平时的一件POLO衫来对应学习就比较好理解些。
1.COLLAR 衣领
(1)Fabric 布:
A . Flat Knit 针纤扁机
B . Rib 1x1针织Ix1罗纹
C . Self Fabric ( Jersey , Interfock ,.…)原身布(平纹布,双面布.…)
D . Woven Fabric 梳织布
(2)Style & Make 款及制造:
A . One Piece (1. top & botom same Piece ,2. top only )
A .一片领(1.领面及底同是一片布,2.只是领面)
B . Two Pieces (1. separate top & botom ,2. Two pcs . at top )
B .两片领(1.分开面布底布各自一片布,2.领面是分开上下)
C . Collar & Colarband 领上级及领下级
D . Collar shape : Crew - neck , V - neck , Turtle - neck , Mock - neck , etc .
D .领形:圆领, V 领圆高领(高反领,假反领,等等
2.BACK NECK TAPE 后领捆:
(1)Fabric 布:
A . Jersey Tape ( Tubular )猪肠带(圆简形)
B . Rib 1x1 针织1x1罗纹
C . Self Fabric ( Jersey , Interlock ,.)原身布(纹布,双面布.…)
D . Woven Fabric 梳织布
E . Herringbone ( woven )人字带(梳织)
F . NO 没有(不用后领捆)
(2)Make制造
A . Two top stitch at innner neckseam , one top stitch at outer neckseam
A .后内领窝骨(颈缝骨)车双线,后外领窝骨(颈缝骨)车单线
B . Double top stitch at inner / outer neckseam
B .内外后领窝骨(颈缝骨)车双线
C . Overlocked raw edge ( for colar without back neck tape -" F ")
C .领脚(散口)级骨锁边(因为不做后领捆,即以上" F "项)
3.FRONT PLACKET 前筒
(1)Fabric 布:
A . SelfFabric ( Jersey , Interlock ,.)原身布(平纹布,双面布,.…)
B . Flat Knit 针织扁机
C . Herringbone ( woven )人字带(梳织)
D . Woven Fabric 梳织布
E . Diferent ( knit / woven ) Fabric : top / facing , under placket ( top / botom )
E .不同类(针/梳织)布:如面筒和筒贴,或底筒(底面布不同)
(2)Style & Make 款及制造:
A . Patched Placket ( Polo :" Classic ")明筒贴在上面如 Polo 款 Classic
B . Tum back self fabric placket with top stitches at righleft sideS Polo :" finished english placket "暗筒左右两边间线如 Polo 款
C . Turn back self fabric placket with edge stitch only , Polo :" unfinished english placke !”
暗筒筒边间边线如 Polo " unfinished ."款
(3)Top Stitch Width面间线宽 : 1/16" edge 1/8" 1/4” 3/8'' 5/8'' 3/4''
common use 常用宽度: 0.0625 0.125 0.25 0.375 0.625 0.75
Ref :3/16"=0.1875, 5/16''=0.3125, 7/16"=0.4375,1/2"=0.5, 9/16"=0.5625,7/8"=0.875。